Latin Roots & Lucho's

 Part 1 - Protect ya Neck, Alien, & Lucho’s

People often ask me who has better Mexican food, Los Angeles or San Francisco? That's a heavily loaded question for a 1st generation Latino. I am not an authority for authentic Mexican Cuisine. Nor do I want to be, it's too much responsibility man.

 Flashback, I'm 11 years old, and walking home from school. A 14 year old kid comes up to me and says I'm too white to be in that neighborhood, and then punches me in the face. I said what are you talking about? I've lived in this neighborhood my whole life and my parents are from Latin America. When he went to punch me again, I dodged it and I punched him in the throat. I ran away to the sounds of him struggling to breathe. I have never told anyone this story. 

An incident like that leaves a mark on a young 11 year old mind, and I’m not talking about the throat punch. Why did he say I was too white? It puzzled me. We were the same skin tone, so that couldn’t have been it. Was it my clothes? My shoes? The way I spoke Spanish? I stood perplexed.

That was the first in a long line of instances where I felt culturally alienated from my peers. I never felt accepted by Americans or Latinos, so I decided I would just mind my own business and if anyone ever tried to bully me based on my roots they’d have a throat punch coming to them. I was seen as too American for Latinos, and Americans saw me as too Latino to be American. I hope Chamaca never feels that way. 

Nevertheless, my love for Mexican food runs deep in my bones regardless of my experiences. After moving to San Francisco, I sometimes miss the flavors of Los Angeles. In an attempt to eat my feelings, I ventured for those flavors I grew up on; this is peace through food, steadying my heart. I felt my duty as a parent to share these moments with Chamaca, as she may  one day grow up and miss her home too, and find peace through food. 

Lucho’s is the kind of place you cannot go to just once. It feels as though you walked into a restaurant in Highland Park (my home town), but no one is wearing a floppy hat, has a handlebar mustache, or is asking if the eggs are free range. The interior of the restaurant is small, but designed for efficiency. Just enough room for people to move around without bumping into tables or each other. On my first visit, the man Lucho himself was standing at the counter taking orders. He began a cheerful banter with Chamaca and she was having a good time. He asked if Chamaca would be dining in a booster seat (which the restaurant provides) or the stroller? When I said I would keep her in the stroller, he could sense my apprehension as I looked around to see how I could make this work. In a calming tone he recommended outside seating, and I felt relief wash over me.

Cochinita pibil is a dish that was popularized by Johnny Depp's character in Once Upon a Time in Mexico. Pork marinated in citrus juice, achiote paste, wrapped in banana leaves and then slow roasted. Lucho’s cochinita pibil is tender, juicy, flavorful pork with a balanced spicy, sweet, tangy flavor. I would recommend getting the sandwich with a side of coleslaw and a Pacifico. Chamaca was partial to the french fries and coleslaw, since I felt the cochinita pibil may be too much flavor for her baby palate. I grabbed an iced Cafe de Olla (Mexican Coffee) to go, I waved at Lucho and said thank you as we left. Cafe de Olla is a blend of spices (cinnamon, anise, clove, etc.) and coffee. I don’t think we made it a half block before I drank the whole thing. Feeling a small buzz and a caffeine high duking it out in my system like 2 luchadors, I somehow felt at peace. I looked down at Chamaca and she was drifting off to sleep, the sandman came early for her that day. 

Our next visit was as a family with my wife and Chamaca. We stood outside debating on where to sit when Lucho came out to greet us with paper menus. He said it was good to see me again and I mentioned the food was so great that I had to bring my wife with me. We cracked a couple jokes and he went back inside as we studied the menu. 

Situated at a nice table outside, the waiter brought our food and enjoyed some small talk with Chamaca. The peach pancakes had nice pieces of ripe peach in them and tasted just sweet enough to warrant another bite, and another bite, and another bite. Chamaca began to wail, as she no longer wanted to be confined by the stroller, but once she tasted the peach pancake she cracked a smile and ate a good portion. We ordered a side of rice and beans and both my wife and I agreed that it was some of the best black beans we’ve ever had. My ½ order of chilaquiles was a perfect portion if you are sharing plates as we do. The sauce is a balanced blend of tomato and habanero, spicy, but not kill-your-mouth spicy. The chips still had a bit of crunch but were not soggy and the over medium eggs on top were a nice touch. I wished for a little sour cream to cut in the flavors but I won’t die without it. 

As I ate Lucho’s food this time around I felt as though I was starting to get an understanding of this happy man in a chef's coat behind the counter. He reminded me of my uncle who is always busy, but will make time to talk to you and give you 100% focus. The food here is well thought out and executed with skill. There is a balance in these dishes that comes from more than just the preparation. The staff is friendly but hard working, a small restaurant but it feels comfortable and accommodating. I feel like I’ve worked with them all before, in some distant kitchen butchering chickens and scrubbing saute pans, Pedro Infante playing somewhere in the background. I didn’t feel the need to speak Spanish in order to prove my Latin heritage. It’s almost as if Lucho looked into my soul and knew that I needed to eat my memories and find peace through his food. I am in San Francisco but I felt like my Abuelita was in my ear telling me to finish my plate. ¡Ahuevo!

Lucho’s 

2675 Ocean Ave, San Francisco, CA 94132